After my last visit more than 10 years ago I went to Brno to rediscover this beautiful city. With more than 380 000 inhabitants Brno is the second largest city in the Czech Republic. Some say that those that want to avoid the over-touristic city of Prague should try Brno instead. But they are not really doing this city justice. Brno offers a lot of sights to visit. The most popular include the Špilberk Castle and the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul.
Brno – Only 1,5 hours from Vienna
Brno is so close to Vienna that it surprises me that I have not come here more often. Even though you see signs to Brno essentially everywhere in Vienna it might get overlooked. Other destinations, like Bratislava and Budapest, might come to mind more often. Maybe because both cities are country capitals. But Brno has a lot to offer. I decided to stay for three nights to get a good overview. There is a train pretty much every hour from Vienna Main Station and it takes only 1,5 hours.
Once I was there the city center is within walking distance from the train station so I decided to walk to my hotel. I visited the city more than 10 years ago and what I could remember was that the main square is not too far. But I only staid for one night and not even a whole day. Still, my first impression was that of surprise since I hadn’t thought that this city is that young and such a student town. I only remember that I had a fun time.
Day 1 – Arrival, Špilberk Castle
I went to Brno around noon and arrived in the early afternoon. I decided to stay at the Hotel International because I thought that it offered the best deal for the price. On the booking platform it also said „the breakfast in town“. Now, due a lack of comparison I couldn’t verify that but the breakfast was really good. A lot of stuff to choose from. Anyhow, after my usual behavior of finding locations in new cities I arrived at the hotel. My first impression was that of a classic communist building. A big hotel that offered lots of space for conferences. I was lucky cause my view from my room’s window was that of the Špilberk Castle. So I decided to visit that sight first – right in the afternoon of my arrival.
Walking uphill wasn’t much of a challenge. With a slow pace I reached the first parts of the castle in less than 10 minutes. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t the best so you couldn’t see far but I am sure with clear sky the view must be great. What I did observe was that there were many layers. Whenever I went through one gate there was another courtyard. Walking back down to the city I reached the city center. I was happy about the nice walk. By the time I reached the center I was punctual for some dinner. So without any big plans I walked through the city to find a restaurant that looked appealing. Reading the dish „beef cheeks …“ on one of the menus outside a restaurant convinced me. So I went inside. There were many people already 6 in the evening. Many were just there for the beer. My dinner turned out to be decent. The beef cheeks were cooked in red wine. But the meal was hearty enough for me to prepare for the next day.
Day 2 – Cathedral of Saints Peter & Paul, Astronomical Clock
I started the next with a visit of the Tourist information at the Old Town Hall. Basically to get a decent map of the city but they offer a lot of information material what one can visit in Brno. I decided to got for the Cathedral of Saints Peter & Paul first before heading to the center for one important appointment at 11 o’clock.
Somehow in this city I always had the feeling that I was walking up and down and the cathedral was up. Arriving there I was again proven that I was not there during tourist high season. The cathedral itself is impressive but do not expect a cathedral like Cologne or other bigger cities. Although there are many churches in Brno. In the center I felt that there was one every few steps. Anyhow the important part was that I left the cathedral early enough to be on time for my next appointment.
The astronomical clock in the center of Brno, which is essentially just a clock with moving parts is right on the main square of the city. It follows the legend that the citizens of Brno fought off Swedish occupiers during the 30-years war by ringing the bells of the Cathedral of Saints Peter & Paul at 11 o’clock instead of noon to trick the Swedes to leave the city. So since 2010 this astronomical clock on the main square has people waiting every day to spit out a glass marble at 11 o’clock.
When I was there there was a group of Asian tourists. It seemed they knew something was happening because they were clearly waiting for something when I arrived. But I believe they didn’t know what for. So when this one guy caught the glass marble they were quite impressed by this circumstance. In any case. After this event it was time to continue my sightseeing tour. The weather was at least not too cold. So it didn’t feel uncomfortable walking
around. Still I thought I should work on my timing when to visit cities. Spring should be much nicer. With blue sky and warmer temperatures visiting a city is so much more of a nice experience.
Day 3 – Mendel Museum, Starobrno Brewery
After having scratch off the official program of my list I wanted to visit some more unique sights. And with this I mean anything but the usual church and castle/palace visits of a city. And since the Czech Republic is famous for its beer I decided to go for the Starobrno Brewery tour. Now, first I was a bit hesitant cause a few years ago the company Starobrno was bought by Heineken. In any case, the explanation why that wasn’t too bad will follow later.
First, I arrived at the station where the brewery was much too early. As a matter of one hour too early. But I was lucky cause right next to the brewery was the Mendel museum. So I decided to use that one hour to visit that museum. It brought back memories from high school and university times since I studied biochemistry/genetics in high school and biology at university Mendel is a well-known person in these fields of study. So I was happy to learn more about him in Brno. Yes, Mullis, Watson & Crick are to some extent scientific „sons“ of Mendel and today we can call ourselves lucky that science has developed that far. It makes lives to much better. Unfortunately, some are not only not appreciating this fact but they are doubting scientific progress.
Anyhow the museum was wonderful. It is also great for kids since many parts of it are interactive and explain the science in an easy to understand way.
After the museum I was ready for some nice brewery tour. The Starobrno is probably Brno’s best known beer and has been there sind the second half of the 19th century. For the fee of 150 Czech Crowns one can join a tour on Saturday at 11 a.m. or 1 p.m. Those that travel in groups can have a tour arranged. Maybe a good idea since nothing is really happening there on a Saturday. I enjoyed it. I did a few brewery tours in the past. Among them one in Budweis, Kronenbourg in Strassbourg and Ottakringer in Vienna and I think that the one at the Starobrno brewery is not over-scientific but gives a good overview of the brewing process. At the end we got a sample of their newest beer creation that was called bitter.
You can reach both the Mendel museum and the Starobrno Brewery within 2 stops with tram lines 5 or 6 from the city center. Tickets for public transport can be either purchased at certain stops with cash payments, inside the trams and busses by card or at the tourist info point at e.g. the Old Town Hall.
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More Info
Hotel International – https://www.hotelinternational.cz/
Špilberk Castle – https://www.spilberk.cz/
Cathedral Saints Peter and Paul – https://www.gotobrno.cz/de/ort/st-peter-und-paul-kathedrale-katedrala-sv-petra-a-pavla/
Tourist Information – either https://www.gotobrno.cz/ or https://www.visitbrno.cz/
Mendel Museum – https://mendelmuseum.muni.cz/
Starobrno Brewery – https://www.starobrno.cz/
